Lay a thread base over the front half of the shank, then bring the thread back to the wing tie-in point, roughly a third of the shank behind the eye.
Stack a clump of Comparadun deer hair about a hook gap thick with the tips forward, measure it one body length, and secure it with a pinch wrap, then a second pinch wrap without letting go with your material hand.
Take several more tight wraps working back into the hair, letting it flare a little — you want some spin around the shank.
Lift the butts, snip them off, pick out any strays, and trim the stubs back to help the taper; a few firm wraps through them lock the wing so it cannot rotate.
Catch one strand of Z-lon in toward the front, pull it back over the shank, and bind it with a couple of medium wraps.
Carry the thread back to where the tail begins and then forward again, building a taper over the hair butts so there is less of a step for the body to climb — the smoother this is, the less dubbing you need.
Spin a thin noodle of cream dry fly dubbing and wrap a slim body forward to the wing.
Push the wing up with your finger and wiggle it into a half-moon, 180 degrees across the top of the shank, then pull it back and build a dubbing dam in front of it; the dam stands the wing up canted slightly forward rather than a full 90 degrees.
Take one more wrap of dubbing behind the wing and several in front, dubbing right up toward the eye or leaving a little bare shank Catskill-style as Mathews did.
Whip finish with three or four turns and either add a drop of head cement or put in a second whip finish.
Trim the Z-lon tail last, to about half a body length for a short trailing shuck, and clean off any fibers hanging below the shank.