Hook Mustad 34011 long-shank stainless saltwater hook, shank bent to a curve, #1/0-6
Thread Any (it gets covered by paint, epoxy and glitter) UTC 140
Materials
Frame wire Copper frame wire (6-8 in of brassie-size wire)
Keel weight Lead (8-10 wraps of .020-.025 lead wire)
Body Copper (or any color) material (5-minute epoxy plus craft glitter; add a dab of Testors model paint to the epoxy for solid colors)
Eyes Black lacquer dotted toothpick (Black lacquer dotted on with a toothpick)
Tail To suit (Clump of rabbit fur, a few strands of flash, a pair of sili legs)
How to tie it
Before mounting it, bend the hook: grip it in the middle and push the eye up so the shank carries a gentle even curve. This is what makes the finished spoon wobble.
Put the hook in the vise and attach thread right at the eye.
Take six to eight inches of brassie-size copper wire and tie it in at its midpoint just behind the eye with tight figure-eight wraps so both arms sweep back.
Rub a little superglue on the bare shank between the point and the barb and wrap eight to ten turns of.020-.025 lead wire there for a keel; bring the thread back to the front of the lead.
Tie down one wire arm at the rear, then the other, pulling on the wires until you have an even teardrop frame that is wide toward the eye and tapers to the rear; tie off and trim the tag ends.
Turn the hook over and press the wire frame so it follows the curve of the shank.
Mix a batch of 5-minute epoxy (two pea-sized drops, stirred without lifting the bodkin off the surface so you don't whip in bubbles; add a touch of model paint here for a solid color).
Load the bodkin and spread the epoxy in a thin, even skin between the shank and the wire frame, rotating the fly constantly so it doesn't drip. Keep it thin. The thinner the spoon, the better it wobbles.
While it is still wet, douse the whole body liberally with glitter and keep rotating for about five minutes (or park it on an epoxy turner) until the glitter is sucked into the surface and the epoxy sets to a smooth flashy finish.
Once the blank is cured, dot the eyes onto both sides with black lacquer applied with a toothpick and let them dry.
Restart thread at the rear and tie in a clump of rabbit fur with a few strands of flash and a pair of sili legs as the tail; whip finish and seal the wraps with a drop of epoxy.