Before the beads go on, mount the size 10 hook and lay a short low base of thread right at the eye. Keep it thin so the beads will still pass over it.
Take a two to three inch section of brown Mini Bug Legs, slide it under the thread, lift it onto the top of the shank, pinch it, stretch it and take a couple of wraps over. That is the antennae tied in. Whip finish straight away and snip off, because the beads still have to go on. Fold the antennae back without stretching them too much and trim them to about the length of the hook gape so they sit neatly forward.
Slide both beads on - 3.3mm black nickel and 3.5mm gold, and put the hook back in the vice.
Restart the thread so the front bead slides over it and seats. Then start the thread into the slot of the rear bead and wind round and round, keeping it tight, until it comes up hard and locks that bead in place. With thin thread this takes a lot of turns.
Continue the thread base back with the tag end at 45 degrees, going right to where the bend starts but not past it.
Tie in the medium copper wire rib along the near side of the hook, slotting it into the bead slot at the front, and bind it firmly.
Take another two inch piece of Mini Bug Legs, slide it under the thread, lift it onto the top of the shank, pinch, and take a couple of wraps over and one behind to set the tail.
Wax the thread with Loon Low Tech Swax and dub the grey squirrel on lightly without twisting it hard. The wax holds it and you want it scruffy, like a Hare and Copper.
Wind the abdomen forward, thin at the start and building a taper, adding a little more wax and a little more dubbing in sections rather than loading the thread all at once. Keep it nice and spiky.
Counter-wind the copper wire over the abdomen, three or four even turns. Lock it off by wrapping the thread around the wire and pulling tight three times, then a couple of wraps over and behind, and helicopter it off.
Wax and dub again to cover the tie-off, take a couple of turns up to the rear bead and over it, then build a little dubbing in the gap between the two beads. Without it the legs just slide into the gap and are hard to tie on.
Brush the body with an old toothbrush to remove loose fibres and fluff it into a buggy shape.
Tie in the legs between the beads: a two inch piece under the thread lifted up on the near side, one wrap, then a second piece on the far side, a couple of wraps. Add a tiny amount more dubbing to cover the thread and keep the legs separated, fold them back and take a couple of turns forward.
Put a dab of gel superglue on the thread, take a couple of turns and whip finish, working your fingernails in behind the bead to get it tight. Trim the legs by pinching them up from underneath without stretching them, to about the level of the tail, and trim the tail to about the length of the whole fly.