Lay a base of white 70 denier thread on a size 12 1XL dry fly hook, back to the start of the bend. The white matters — it becomes the underbody that keeps the pink floss reading pink when the fly is wet.
Tail: white calftail is hard to stack, so use only a little of it and the widest stacker you own. Catch a long tail in about a body length, take three wraps, then one wrap underneath to stop it spinning around.
Run loose wraps forward over the calftail butts to build a little bulk and carry the white underbody forward, then take a couple of tight wraps and snip the excess.
Take the thread back and tie in a black ostrich herl for the rear body section; wrap about six touching turns forward to the thread. Take three big thread wraps forward first to get the bobbin out of the way, then back them off at the tie-off point.
Snip the herl — ostrich is tougher than peacock and will not break cleanly when you yank it — and add a few extra thread wraps over the dark butt so it does not show through the pink.
Catch the pink floss in at the front of where you want the band, then wrap it back and forward again, keeping it flat, to build a solid band about a third of the body wide.
Take the thread a little forward and tie in the second black ostrich herl for the front body section; wrap about six turns forward, secure with two wraps, and snip the excess.
Spend a few wraps smoothing the front of the body out — it makes wrapping the hackle much easier.
Hackle: strip a bare stem on the white dry fly hackle plus a few extra fibers from the side that will wrap away from you, so the first turn lays clean. Catch it in with wraps going slightly back, then one wrap behind it.
Instead of snipping the stem at the tie-in, lay the thread wraps forward over it almost to the eye, then snip — that avoids a drop-off under the hackle.
Wrap the hackle forward about five turns to the hanging thread and catch it off.
Pull everything back just enough for room, whip finish a small head — it is a dry fly — and add a drop of head cement.