Slide the brass cone onto the hook, then take 10 to 12 wraps of .025 lead wire and shove them up inside the back of the cone. The lead weights the fly and locks the cone in place at the same time.
Start the Semperfli 6/0 waxed thread behind the lead, crossing over the tag, and break the lead off. Fold the stub down, trim the tag and wrap over it so the underbody comes out even.
Run the thread back to the start of the bend and bind in a yellow Whiting Superbou feather for the tail with about three wraps, then trim the butt. Lighter colour goes underneath.
Stack a brown Superbou feather on top with the tips aligned to the first and bind it in, using an over-under wrap to keep the yellow fibres on top of the shank. Wrap the butts forward to the cone so the underbody stays uniform.
Bind copper Krystal Flash in on the side at the bend so it divides the brown from the yellow: three wraps forward, fold the flash over the top, bring both halves down each side and wrap back. Trim it level with the longest tail fibres.
Strip the variegated chenille back to expose the cord so it will not hump up, bind it in with about four wraps, and park it out of the way.
Tie in the grizzly bugger hackle by the tip, trimming off the fine tip fibres, then bind the .2mm gold wire in from the cone back to the bend, keeping the wire on top of the shank and the hackle to the side.
Pick two rubber legs apart but leave them joined, trim them to two or three inches, and bind one pair on top of the shank at the rear third, jumping the thread up and over so they fall down each side. Add the second pair at the front third - divide the shank into three equal parts and every fly comes out the same.
Wrap the chenille forward; the first wrap is the hardest, so keep it from dragging the marabou around. Three wraps behind the rear legs, force one extra wrap in behind them, then wrap tight against the front of each leg set to push the legs straight out.
Palmer the grizzly hackle forward, two or three turns in the rear section, then coming up and under around each leg set with the concave side back so the feather does not twist. Two or three turns at the head, tucked into the cone if you can, then tie off and snip the stem.
Counter-wrap the gold wire forward, minimising the hackle fibres and rubber legs you trap, tie it off under the cone, cut it flush with flush cutters and push the butt up into the cone with a fingernail.
Three-turn whip finish, pick the trapped hackle fibres out with a bodkin for a clean collar, then trim the legs to roughly a shank length and split each joined pair with the bodkin.