Bodkin / Patterns

Rick's Sili Stone

Nymph · Trout · Advanced · 1 version

Tyer Recipe

  • Hook Hends BL144 barbless competition jig hook, #10 (tie 6-12)
  • Thread Wood duck (tan/gold) Classic waxed

Materials

  • Slotted bead Black (gold also good), oversized for weight (1)
  • Sili legs Pumpkin green/orange (2 strands, cut into four legs)
  • Wire Silver wire (0.2 mm / 2 mm, one length)
  • Hare dubbing plus (Hends #22) Natural sparkle brown hare dubbing plus (Enough for a full body)
  • Hare's mask guard hair Natural hare s ear dubbing (Spiky fibers from the mask (or ears for stiffer spikes) for the thorax)
  • Head cement Clear head cement (1 drop)

How to tie it

  1. Slide the oversized bead onto the jig hook, start the wood duck thread, push the bead forward and wrap right across the back of it to build a thread dam so it cannot move. (Add a layer of sticky-back flat lead under the body if you want it heavier still.)
  2. Wrap the thread back around the bend a little to leave a small wood-duck orange hot spot at the tail, then come forward to the 30% point, hold a finger against the thread and wrap up against it to build a small bump.
  3. Tie one strand of sili leg in along the near side, right up against the back of that bump so the bump kicks the leg outward. Take two or three wraps forward and tie the second half of the strand in along the far side the same way, matching the lengths. Bind the legs down and even up the body with a few wraps back and forth.
  4. Tie in the 0.2 mm silver wire on top and bind it back to the rear leg tie-in point, then set it aside in a magnet or clip.
  5. Spin Hends #22 hare dubbing plus tightly onto the thread and wrap a full body forward to about the 70% point, building it a little thicker toward the front.
  6. Wrap the silver wire forward through the body in open turns for segmentation and durability, tie off and helicopter it away. Brush the body out with a velcro stick to make it buggy.
  7. Tie in a second pair of sili legs at the front, one strand along each side, holding them tight against the shank so they sit on the sides rather than rolling under. Take a couple of wraps behind and in front to lock them.
  8. Wax the thread and spin on the spiky guard hairs from a hare's mask, avoiding the underfur. Wrap the thorax in stages: behind the front legs, between them (this holds them apart), and in front, building a full, prominent bushy thorax.
  9. Whip finish twice behind the eye and add head cement. Trim the rear legs to about three quarters of an inch, eyeball the front legs to match, and brush the thorax out one last time so it is spiky.

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