Salmon/Steelhead · Salmon · Steelhead · Intermediate · 1 version
Tyer Recipe
Hook Hends BL510 (any curved shrimp/caddis hook), #8-12 (size 10 in the video)
Thread Fluorescent green 8/0 classic waxed
Materials
Bead Chartreuse brass (tungsten to sink faster) (1/8 in.)
Sticky-back flat lead - (One layer over the shank plus one extra turn at the front)
Holographic tinsel Silver flashabou (One long length for the underbody)
Body glass (half-round micro) Chartreuse slotted tungsten bead (One length)
UV resin (no-tack) Clear uv resin (Thin coat over the body)
How to tie it
Slide the 1/8 in. chartreuse bead on. Starting where the barb would be, lay one layer of sticky-back flat lead along the shank up to the bead, break it off, then add one extra full turn right behind the bead and press it down with a fingernail.
Start fluorescent green thread, trim the tag, and wrap the full length of the shank to lock the flat lead down and give the tinsel a base to sit on.
Tie in the chartreuse body glass at about the 25-30% point, where the taper starts to drop off, and bind it down tight, stretching it hard as you wrap it around the bend to the rear. Bring the thread forward, securing the tag end and covering the lead.
Set the body glass aside in a material clip and tie in a long piece of silver holographic tinsel. Wrap it forward in slightly overlapping turns to cover the whole underbody, adding two or three extra wraps right at the front to fill the space behind the bead. Tie off and trim.
Put a half hitch in behind the bead so nothing unwinds, then take the body glass and make a couple of tight wraps right at the rear so it cannot slide down the bend. This is the fiddly part, since the tinsel underneath is slippery.
Wrap the body glass forward, pulling it very hard at the rear (almost doubling its length) so the back of the body is thin, then progressively easing off until you are wrapping at natural tension near the front. Add a wrap forward, back and forward again right behind the bead.
Tie the body glass off securely before trimming, then whip finish. A second whip finish is worth adding.
Spread a very thin coat of no-tack UV resin over the body with a bodkin so the whole thing is sealed, and cure it under the light.