Salmon/Steelhead · Streamer · Steelhead · Advanced · 1 version
Tyer Recipe
Hook Mustad Ultimate Predator, #4
Thread Copper / rust 8/0 classic waxed
Materials
Holographic tinsel Gold (copper also works) (Large, one length)
Stretch floss Black floss (1 strand for the rib)
Canadian raccoon Natural case (A pinch of guard hair with a little underfur, for the first collar)
Coq de Leon hackle Medium pardo (1 feather for the front collar)
Head cement Clear head cement (1 coat)
How to tie it
Start copper thread behind the eye and wrap back, stopping just short of the hook point. That is as far back as the body should go.
Take open wraps forward, then tie in one strand of black stretch floss along the near side of the shank, pulling it tight as you bind it so it adds no bulk.
Tie in large gold holographic tinsel a little farther forward, bind it back to the same rear point, and bring the thread to about two eye-lengths behind the eye.
Wrap the tinsel forward in slightly overlapping turns to the thread, tie it off securely and trim. This is the only flash in the whole fly.
Counter-wrap the black stretch floss forward: keep the first turn very tight at the rear, then open the spacing for a bold, prominent rib. Tie off with a firm pull and trim. (Optionally seal the body with UV resin here.)
Flatten the thread and make a dubbing loop or split thread at the front of the body. Load it with Canadian raccoon guard hair plus a little underfur, spread the fibers evenly, pinch below and spin the bobbin hard until the rope is tight.
Wrap two or three turns of the raccoon rope, starting right against the last body turn and stroking everything rearward before each turn. Tie off, trim and brush the ball out. It will hold the front hackle out and make it breathe.
Strip the fluff from a Coq de Leon medium pardo feather and tie it in by the tip with the barred side facing out. Wrap it forward to the eye, stroking the fibers back and picking them out on every turn, keeping the natural curve rearward and not twisting the stem. Use the whole feather.
Tie off with three or four wraps behind and in front, trim the stem, and build a small rusty copper head. Whip finish tight, brush any trapped fibers free, and add head cement, stroking the material back so it stays out of the feathers.