Mount a TMC 3761 with a matching gold cyclops bead and ram a length of .020 or .025 lead wire up into the bead; the wraps should run about half the length of the shank.
Start red Veevus 8/0 thread and wrap through the lead a couple of times to make it secure, then take the thread all the way back to the bend.
Set two brown goose biots as the tail, arranged so their curves splay away from each other, half to three-quarters of a shank long, pinched in on either side of the hook.
Trim the biot butts, take the thread forward, and bind small silver tinsel in along the side of the hook.
Bind three strands of peacock herl in alongside the tinsel and wrap the thread forward, keeping the transition from the rear of the fly to the body smooth and free of lumps so the tinsel will lie flat.
Wrap the peacock herl forward to the bead, lock it with two tight wraps in front and one behind, and trim the butt ends.
Counter-wrap the tinsel forward the opposite way to the herl - this locks the fragile herl in and makes the rib stand out - then two tight wraps behind and one in front.
Strip the fluff from a brown India hen back feather, stroke the fibers back to expose the very tip, and tie it in by the tip with a couple of well-placed wraps. Trim the tip out, grip the stem in hackle pliers, force the fibers back at an angle and work one careful wrap around the head of the fly, then capture the stem and trim it.
Scoot the collar fibers down from the top to the sides with a wrap of thread, clearing a bed on top for the wing.
Pair two white goose biots with the tips even in a shallow V, measure them from the bead back to just past the body, and tie them in at the bead facing forward and curving up, with two tight wraps.
Trim the biots but leave a short tag, pull down tight with the thread, fold the wings back over the top, split them, lay a wrap in front and two tight wraps to secure them.
Whip finish, conserving wraps throughout - there is very little room behind the bead.