Bodkin / Patterns

Quilldigon Bomb

Nymph · Trout · Advanced · 1 version

Old Dominion Trout Bum dressing

  • Hook Hanak 400 (can use 20-14, 16
  • Thread Black UTC 70

Materials

  • Bead Copper bead 2.8mm (can use silver as well 2.0-3.8mm)
  • Tail CDL dark pardo
  • Flash butt Micro size Flashabou
  • Body Polish body quill natural (can use golden olive and olive)
  • UV resin Solorez Bone-dry
  • Wing case resin Gulff black

How to tie it

  1. Before you start, drop however many polish body quills you plan to use into a small bowl of water and let them soak while you prep the fly. Straight out of the pack they are brittle and will split or break as you wrap them.
  2. Slide the 2.8mm copper bead onto the size 16 Hanak 400 and start black UTC 70 behind it. Spin the bobbin counterclockwise to flatten the thread and re-flatten it every so often as you work, because it cords up clockwise on its own and a corded thread is what makes a perdigon fat.
  3. Take three coq de leon dark pardo fibers with the tips aligned and lay them on the shank. A counterclockwise spin makes the thread jump backwards as you wrap, so the tail locks in easily; adjust it to about a hook gap.
  4. Slip the micro Flashabou underneath the hook between the bead and the thread and catch it with half a turn. Gather the tail and the flash together, flatten the thread, and bind them down the shank.
  5. Advance the thread a couple of wraps, take one and a half to two and a half turns of Flashabou for the butt, capture it, and advance forward with flat thread while keeping tension pulling the flash forward so it stays level on the shank. Trim the excess.
  6. Choose a quill with good edging and colour and use the thicker end. Cut the tip at an angle, take the thread back to the flash butt, and catch the angled corner in with the dark edge facing down, jutting out at about 45 degrees; build a slight taper forward.
  7. Take the quill in hackle pliers and wind it slowly forward in even, slightly open turns, stopping with the quill on top of the shank. Spin the thread clockwise to cord it and lock the quill in, then lean sharp scissors against the back of the bead and knife the excess off flush.
  8. Put in two whip finishes, stopping with the thread on top of the fly; any fray then sits where the wing case will cover it.
  9. Brush a very thin coat of Solarez Bone Dry over the body with a small brush or a bodkin, thinning it out with the arm of the brush so the quill segmentation pops rather than being buried, and cure it.
  10. Drop black Gulff into the slot behind the bead for the wing case, holding the vise steady and pulling away slowly since the resin is thick, then cure it.
  11. Touch a very thin layer of hard-drying head cement over the wing case; it dries flat and keeps the black from dulling or chipping off against rocks.

Tying videos

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