Start the thread and run it back past the bend to where the hook really starts to curve, then build a small ball of Scud Shrimp Olive SLF Dubbing right at the back and take a couple of turns forward.
Even the tips of three Gray Ostrich Herl fibres and bind them on top of the shank about half a shank length long, splitting them roughly three ways with your fingers as you wrap back to the dubbing ball so they splay to each side. Take the thread forward and trim the excess.
Tie in a strand of pearl Krystal Strand for the rib.
Dub a slim body forward with the same Scud Shrimp Olive SLF Dubbing, spun tight on the thread and added in small amounts, to about two-thirds of the shank. This body wants to be slender.
Counter-wrap the Krystal Strand forward over the body - the opposite way to the direction you dubbed - and capture it.
Bind a section of pheasant tail in on top of the shank for the casing, facing rearward, and smooth the butts down. All it has to be is dark on top.
Gills: bind a soft, plumey feather from the base of a pheasant or Natural Partridge feather along each side of the shank, trimming the tips if they run long.
Dub the thorax with the same dubbing, a little bulkier than the body, and leave room at the eye rather than crowding it.
Pull the pheasant tail casing forward over the thorax and lock it down at the eye with tight wraps, then trim the tips close and cover the butt ends.
Legs: strip all the fluff from a Natural Partridge feather and cut a small notch just below the tip. Pinch it into place so the fibres just barely touch the gills, take three loose wraps, then let go, hold the thread tight and pull back on the feather so the tip breaks out. Clean up with a couple of wraps and whip finish.
Apply Loon UV Thick Fly Finish to the wing casing and work it in with a needle, back to front and out to each side, all the way up to the head so the whole case is covered, then cure it with the UV light.