Lay a thread base from behind the eye down into the bend and back up to the start of the bend, then turn the hook upside down in the vise.
Fold a clump of the Starburst tail dubbing in half and bind it at the centre of the bunch at the back of the hook. Sweep the forward-facing fibres rearward, bind them on the far side, then pull the fibres out and snip them to length.
Bind a single strand of red Flashabou at its centre on the near side of the hook, fold the forward-facing half rearward and bind it on the far side. Turn the hook right side up again.
Snip a thick clump of white Bucktail from the long-fibred tip of the swatch, pinch further up and pull the short fibres out. Measure it 1.5 to 2 shank lengths, roll it around the shank, take a few tight wraps slightly down into the bend, then touching wraps all the way forward to just behind the eye. That thick butt base under the whole shank is what keeps the fly buoyant. Trim the butts and smooth the transition.
Back at the tail, bind two strands of pearl flash at their centre on the near side reaching just past the bucktail, then fold the forward halves back and bind them on the far side.
Fold a rubber leg strand and cut it into two pieces. Bind one piece at its centre on the near side so two legs angle rearward, advance the thread slightly, and bind the second piece the same way on the far side.
Spin a dubbing brush (or a compound dubbing loop) from one-inch pieces of the body materials. Test how far back the foam head will sit on the shank and bring the thread up to that spot.
Wrap the brush forward: put the first wraps behind the rubber legs so they stand out further, make the second wrap in front of them and reset any legs the brush trapped, then carry on in touching wraps, stroking the fibres back with each turn and picking the body out with a bodkin every couple of wraps.
Pull the brush tight, add a drop of super glue under the last wrap so the body cannot rotate, wrap once over the glue, then capture the brush with a couple of tight wraps and cut it flush with wire cutters. Sweep all the fibre rearward, wrap over the stub, pick the body out again and clean up the head with thread.
Turn the hook upside down again and bind a bunch of red Congo Hair in a V under the shank right in front of the brush for the gills. Snip the excess, build the head up a little so the foam has something to grip, and whip finish.
Head: cut about a half inch from a 1/2" white Foam Cylinder, cut a V into the face, rotate it and cut a second V notch at an angle on the other side, round off any odd corners with scissors, and poke a hole down the dead centre with a bodkin. Test-fit it on the fly to open the hole up, then load the front of the fly with gel super glue and push the head on in one quick motion.
Trim the body flat on top, bottom and both sides so it matches the width of the popper head, stroking the fibres back and forth to find spots you missed. Cut a 6mm seat in each side of the foam with a 6mm foam cutter, plus a shallow notch behind it, and pick the plug out with scissor tips. Glue a 6mm Fish Skull Living Eye into each seat, flood the cavity with Solarez flex formula spread with a bodkin, and cure with a UV light.