Front hackle Olive mosaic (Upavon Straggle Hackle 14mm)
Head 1 Wounded sculpin (Fulling Mill Micro Minnow Dub)
Head 2 Tan carapace (Fulling Mill Micro Minnow Dub)
Head 3 Wounded sculpin (Fulling Mill Sculpin-Stacker Dub)
Eyes Fire (Flymen Living Eyes 4mm)
Resin Clear uv resin (Solarez Bone Dry and Bone Flex Dry UV resin)
How to tie it
Start the light olive 140D on the size 12 curved hook and wrap a base from the eye back to the 30% mark, then tie the olive polliwog tail flat on top so it sits in line with the hook. A tail mounted even slightly off-centre will make the whole fly spin on the strip.
Wrap the 10mm olive mosaic straggle hackle forward from the tail tie-in to the hook eye in touching turns, stroking fibers back after each wrap so the rear section stays slim and the strands can pulse rather than clump.
Whip finish the rear hook and lock the head wraps with Bone Dry, then mount the 15mm 60-degree shank in the vise and hang the finished rear hook off the shank's rear loop so it rides point-up behind the front section.
Start thread on the shank, bind the rear loop wraps down hard, and palmer the 14mm straggle hackle from the rear of the shank forward to about the 50% mark. The longer-fibered hackle here builds the wider shoulder of a sculpin over the narrower rear.
Dub the head in three loads over the front half, starting with wounded sculpin micro minnow dub, blending into tan underneath for a light belly, and finishing with sculpin-stacker dub combed down and out to the sides. Sculpins are flat and broad-headed, so keep brushing the fibers down rather than letting them build a round ball.
Set the 4mm fire Living Eyes low on the sides of the dubbed head where a real sculpin carries them, then whip finish behind the shank eye.
Anchor the eyes and the head fibers with Bone Flex Dry so the head keeps its flattened wedge shape but still gives a little rather than shattering when it bounces off rock.