Slide the metallic pink slotted bead onto the jig hook and mount it. Start the red thread behind the bead and take a few wraps to build a thread dam that locks the bead forward, then snip the butt of the thread.
Line the tips of five or six Coq De Leo Medio fibres up by pulling them 90 degrees off the stem. Bind them in on top of the shank for a short tail and carry the thread back to just before the bend with flat, counter-spun wraps, holding the butts down as you go, then snip the butts.
Bind the small red wire in along your near side and take the thread back up to the bead.
Lay the medium Mirage tinsel flash back on top of the shank - lift it under, hold the thread and pull it down so it seats dead centre - and bind it back to the point where the tail tie-in finished.
Snip the fine tips off two or three natural pheasant tail fibres so they do not break under tension, bind them in at the tail and lock them down as the thread returns to the bead.
Start the pheasant tail by hand for the first turn, then take hold with hackle pliers and wrap the abdomen forward to the bead. Secure it and snip the excess.
Wax the thread, pull the flash back forward over the abdomen and lock it on top of the shank: two turns behind, then pull it forward and two turns in front, and trim the butt.
Counter-rib with the red wire, taking it under the shank first, in four or five open turns up to the bead. Lock it off and helicopter it out.
Spin a small amount of Ice Dub Peacock Black on the thread - two or three turns' worth, no more - tighten it with a clockwise spin, and wrap the thorax behind the bead.
Run a little varnish onto the thread and close with a double whip finish, leaving a slim band of red thread showing in front of the dubbing.