Set a short-shank hook — a Mustad C68SZ in size 2 suits the spun deer hair head — and start heavy tying thread, UTC 210 or 280 denier on a large bobbin, at about the hook point, working back to secure it.
Snip five or six ostrich herls free from one side of the stem, measure a tail two to three times the length of the hook and tie them in on top of the shank.
Double a few strands of silver Krystal Flash over and attach them on top, then do the same with two or three strands of Flashabou.
Top the flash with five or six more ostrich herls.
Strip the nasties off a marabou plume or blood quill to leave about a two-inch segment, keeping enough bare butt to take hackle pliers; find the tip, pull the fibers back to expose the stem, snip the tip off and tie the feather onto the shank by that point.
Grip the butt with hackle pliers, pull the feather up, rub the stem with the back of your scissors to point the fibers rearward, then wet your fingers and stroke the fibers back further.
Spiral the marabou forward around the shank, pulling the fibers back as you go, then tie the stem off with a couple of good tight wraps, reorient any strays, snip the stem close and take a few finishing wraps.
Snip a pencil-width clump of white deer hair, fan and flick the fuzzies out of the butts, stack the tips and lay the bundle on top of the shank with the tips just past the bend; squeezing hard, take one wrap and work it down under pressure, a second to flare it further and one more for good measure, then run the thread through the butt ends at 45 degrees and pull tight to lock the bundle. A few loose wraps behind the first ones tame the flare on the rearward tips.
Snip another clump the same size, clean the butts and snip the tips off, take one wrap and then ease your fingertip pressure on the second so the hair spins right around the shank; a further wrap or two stops it spinning.
Push the hair back and pack it with a ballpoint pen barrel with its guts removed, then build a thread dam in front to hold it, and repeat the spinning and packing until the hair reaches just behind the eye.
Holding the hair back, put a small amount of Zap-A-Gap on the thread with your bodkin, take a few wraps and cut the thread free — it will not unravel.
Trim the head to shape, cutting the bottom flat and parallel to the shank first and working from there, then cement all the way round the final wraps and over the flat of the head to lock it in.