Eyeball how big you want the head to be, start the fl. chartreuse UTC 70 thread there, and build the thread base, tie-ins and body taper all in one pass — working down about 25% of the shank at a time and doubling the thread back to the front each time.
Pull exactly three pheasant tail fibers for the tail — enough for a tail without a big bushy one — measure them, pinch and cinch them down at the rear, then double the thread back forward.
Slip the extra small copper wire in before you reach the bend, so every material is bound in before the body is wrapped, and take the thread down to where the body will end.
Pull five or six more pheasant tail fibers, keep them together, snip them off the quill and snip the tips square for a thin tie-in point; with the colorful side facing you, shimmy them under the thread and lock them in.
Wrap the pheasant tail forward in touching wraps with the colorful side facing out, holding steady pressure so the fibers do not separate and without doubling the material over, which mashes down the little standing fibers that make pheasant tail worth using; tie off and trim.
Wrap the copper wire the opposite way round to the pheasant tail, in evenly spaced turns, with one extra turn at the front; butt the thread against it and secure.
Take a few strands of caddis green ice dub, twist a very tight thin dubbing noodle, build it up where the body ends and wrap single touching turns forward, leaving room at the eye for the hackle.
Stroke the back of a dubbing brush over all sides of the thorax to tease out a few stragglers so it angles back — a hint of flash only, not a body-covering halo.
Strip one side off a brown hen feather, stroke the remaining fibers back, tie it in facing you with one locking wrap and a couple to secure, fold it back, double the thread over the front and snip the butt off.
Take two or three wraps of hen hackle, sweeping the fibers rearward, tie off with a couple of tight wraps, then stroke everything back and cover with thread.
Build up the head, take a three-turn whip finish, and apply Solarez to the thread only — one quick coat to bleed into the wraps, then a second turned carefully with the brush for the bubble look, and cure it.