Set a size 1 long-shank straight-eye hook in the vise and lay a base of mono thread from behind the eye back to about the hook point — no farther.
Peel the backing off a piece of Sticky Back Foam roughly half an inch by three quarters, fold it onto the underside of the shank and pinch it tight, keeping it clear of the hook gap. Trim the excess so the seam stays closed, then wrap thread over it and taper the rear section off.
Cut a second, slightly longer piece of Sticky Back Foam and set it so it hangs over the hook eye at the front and reaches back to about the hook point. Peel the backing, press it down with a straight front edge — that edge becomes the popper face — and pinch it tight all the way round.
Trim the back of the top piece at an angle to blend it into the rear taper, then trim underneath at an angle to expose the hook gap.
Bind the foam with the mono thread and stop just behind the hook eye. Do not haul hard on the thread here — it cuts into the foam. Pull firmly only at the rear to seat the taper.
Trim a little off the front to leave the face flat and slightly cupped.
Stick a Gator Eye on each side of the head and flood the head with UV Resin — most of it is self-leveling, so let it settle before you hit it with the light. The clear thread disappears under the resin.
Change to chartreuse thread at the rear and tie in a good bunch of olive GSS for the tail. Fold the forward-facing butts back over the tie-in to show a band of chartreuse under the olive, then break the GSS off rather than cutting it.
Add Crazy Legs in olive and black, four per side, kept about as long as the GSS. Pull them tight at the bottom as you bind so they spread and widen the tail profile.
Take a couple of turns of whip finish and seal the thread with a little more UV Resin, cured under the light.