Bodkin / Patterns

Parachute Damsel

Dry Fly · Trout · Advanced · 1 version

Charlie's Fly Box dressing

  • Hook Daiichi 1640, 12
  • Thread Black Veevus 14/0

Materials

  • Tail Light Blue and Dark Blue Macrame Yarn
  • Wing Case Blue 2mm Thin Foam
  • Body Blue superfine dubbing
  • Hackle Coq De Leon Rooster Saddle

How to tie it

  1. Start the Black Veevus 14/0 just behind the eye of the size 12 Daiichi 1640 — a ring-eye short-shank hook.
  2. Cut the ends of the Light Blue and Dark Blue Macrame Yarn square and take about ten or twelve fibers of each, held together at a length at least twice the finished body.
  3. Furl the body: twist the ends in opposite directions, as tightly as you can, then loop it over on itself, pushing the scissors up to the end to control where the twist forms. The two blues give the variegation of the natural, and furling makes a body far skinnier than a commercial braided-mono damsel abdomen.
  4. Bind the loose end on top of the shank so the furled abdomen projects well past the bend — damsels are slimmer than most patterns tied for them, so keep it fine — then trim the yarn off the front and bind it down smooth.
  5. Cut a strip of Blue 2mm Thin Foam about a millimetre wide, back the thread up, catch the strip and wrap over it right up to the base of the abdomen. This is the wing case and the parachute post both.
  6. Pick a Coq De Leon Rooster Saddle feather with long, stiff barbs — the wings run almost as long as the body, so a wide feather is the catch here — strip the base to a bare stem and tie it in on the near side, right at the base of the foam.
  7. Wrap the feather four or five turns around the base of the foam post; the post will rotate a little, which is fine. Bring the tip back toward you, sweep the hackle back, catch the tip with a pinch wrap at the base of the post, and trim the tip out.
  8. Twist a little Blue Superfine Dubbing onto the thread, sweep the hackle back out of the way, and dub from about an eye length behind the eye back to the base of the post and forward again, ending on bare thread at that index point. Keep it skinny and sparse.
  9. Flatten the foam strip back down and twist it back the way it came, part the hackle at the front so you have a clear spot, and bind the foam down behind the eye with a couple of tight turns.
  10. Lift the foam and take a few thread turns for a head — this is only to elevate the foam off the hook eye — then whip finish with the foam held up out of the way.
  11. Trim the foam fairly flush, leaving a small nub so it cannot slide back through, and preen the hackle, snipping off anything sticking down.

Tying videos

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