Rib UTC Ultra Wire, extra small, silver (one strand)
Hot spot Red UV2 or Sybai flash dubbing (a genuinely miniscule amount, just enough to colour the thread)
Collar Jack Mickievicz squirrel dubbing (a loose pinch)
How to tie it
Mount a Hanak H480BL in a size 18 with a 2.3mm silver slotted tungsten bead. Rich fishes this between 16 and 22, any bigger and he thinks it starts to look wrong.
Start black Veevus 16/0 right behind the bead, get a couple of wraps in to secure it and clip the tag.
Rip three or four dark pardo Coq de Leon fibres off the stem and trap them in behind the bead, measuring the tail at about one shank length. Use the bare shank itself as your gauge and transfer the measurement to your other hand.
Wrap the butts down. With slotted beads and no lead wraps, those butt ends are what stabilise the bead and hold it where you want it.
Bump the tails back into line and bind them down.
Tie in extra small silver Ultra Wire directly behind the bead and take the thread back to where the hook first begins to bend. Take no extra thread wraps anywhere, the whole fly depends on being super thin.
Bring the thread back up to the bead.
Counter-wrap the wire forward, tie it down and helicopter it off. The body should be very fine and slender with minimal bulk.
Touch the smallest possible amount of red flash dubbing onto the thread, not a pinch, just enough to colour the thread. Rich uses either Spirit River UV2, whose long fibres are easy to tear off and work with, or a very fine Sybai flash dubbing.
Wrap that in as the hot spot.
Dub a loose collar of Jack Mickievicz squirrel dubbing. Leave it loose on purpose, so it veils back over the red. You want the red glowing through, not hitting you in the face.
Whip finish. Do not tidy it up any further; it goes in the box exactly as it comes off the vice.