Bodkin / Patterns

Olsen's Quilldigon

Nymph · Trout · Advanced · 1 version

Old Dominion Trout Bum dressing

  • Hook Hanak 400 (can use 20-14, 16
  • Thread Black UTC 70

Materials

  • Bead Copper bead 2.8mm (can use silver as well 2.0-3.8mm)
  • Tail CDL dark pardo
  • Flash butt Micro size Flashabou
  • Body Polish body quill natural (can use golden olive and olive)
  • UV resin Solorez Bone-dry
  • Wing case resin Gulff black

How to tie it

  1. Soak however many Polish body quills you plan to use in a small bowl of water while you set up — straight out of the pack they are brittle and split or break as you wrap.
  2. Set the size 16 jig hook carrying a 2.8 mm copper bead and start black UTC 70, keeping the thread flattened; keeping a perdigon thin and narrow is the whole point of the pattern.
  3. Align the tips of three CDL dark pardo fibers, lay them on the shank and give the bobbin a counter-clockwise spin so the thread jumps rearward and locks the tail in easily.
  4. Slip the micro Flashabou under the hook between the bead and the thread and catch it with a half turn, then grab the tail and the flash together, spin the thread counter-clockwise to flatten it and bind both down the shank.
  5. Advance the thread a couple of wraps, take two and a half turns of Flashabou and capture it, then wrap forward with flat thread while keeping the flash pulled forward so it lies level on the shank; cut the excess off.
  6. Pull a soaked quill and pick one with good edging and colour; use the thicker end, tie it in dark edge down, cut the end at an angle and catch that angled corner at the flash butt so it juts out at about 45 degrees, then build a slight taper forward with flat thread.
  7. Grip the quill with hackle pliers and wrap slowly forward in evenly spaced turns, stopping with the quill on top of the shank; cord the thread clockwise and lock it in.
  8. Lean sharp scissors against the back edge of the bead and knife the quill off flush so nothing sticks up, then put in two whip finishes, stopping with the thread on top of the fly.
  9. Paint a little Solarez Bone-Dry over the quill body with a small brush and thin it out with the brush handle — the quill really pops under the resin — then cure it under the light.
  10. Drop black Gulff into the slot behind the bead for the wing case, pulling the applicator away slowly since the resin is thick, and cure; this covers the thread stub left on top.
  11. Touch a very thin layer of hard-as-nails over the cured wing case so it does not dull or chip off against rocks.

Tying videos

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