Wrap about ten turns of 0.015 lead-free wire onto the shank and slide it back so the front sits about two eye-lengths behind the eye.
Start black thread, build a small dam behind the weight, run the thread to the front and dam it there too so the wire cannot shift.
Take the thread back past the start of the bend, a little past where the barb is, to set up a long body, and tie in eight to ten brown speckled hen barbs as a tail. Check the position after one or two wraps, then bury the butts forward for a little bulk.
Tie in the yellow floss and bind it all the way back to the front of the tail where the wraps will start.
Tie in two strands of peacock herl (brittle tips snipped off) and wrap a slim body forward, one turn in front of the last, almost to the front. Secure and trim.
Counter-wrap the yellow floss forward under good tension in close turns, giving it a quick spin whenever it starts to lie flat, so it locks the herl in. Tie off and trim. The front spacing does not matter. It will be covered.
Tie in a small hen soft hackle tip concave side toward the hook, bend the stem back and lock it in, then take about two turns with hackle pliers.
Pull all the barbs down under the shank as a throat, holding them tight with your material hand, take locking wraps, and trim any barbs left standing on top or sticking out messily.
Prepare two matched light turkey (or goose or duck) quill slips, measure them to about halfway down the tail, and set them on top with a pinch wrap. Check the position after a couple of wraps, adjust if needed, then lock them in and cut the butts off.
Close the head up with a few more turns, whip finish four or five turns, trim any loose thread fibers, then coat the head with UV resin and cure for 10-15 seconds (or use head cement).