Rabbit fur, dyed Orange and yellow rabbit fur dyed (Throat)
Cree hackle tips Cree dry fly hackle (2)
Permanent marker Brown and red markings (Parr markings)
Five-minute epoxy Clear uv resin (Head coat)
How to tie it
Stick metal tape over the shank of a size 2 Carrie Stevens hook from the return eye to the point and trim it to a belly shape. The tape is what gives the fly its flat-sided, deep-bellied little-fish outline before a single fibre goes on.
Slide small gold mylar tubing over the hook and tape with the ends just past the bend, then lash the rear end down with 18/0 and the front with 24/0. Cement both. The mylar tube is the scaled body and it must not slide.
Set gold eyes underneath the hook between the eye and the body and cement them. Everything from here builds around that fixed point.
Stack the rear wing behind the eyes: beige polar fibre on top, bronze Shimmer Fringe over it, white below, yellow on top of the fringe, and brown polar fibre with flash longest of all. Comb the short fibres out of every clump first, then stack darkest on top and white below. That is the back-to-belly gradient every baitfish has.
Spin hot orange Ice Dub in a split thread and wrap it behind and between the eyes, then add shorter white below and brown above in front of the eyes. Orange at the gill line is the hot spot that draws the eat.
Sweep every fibre back tight and lock it with a thread collar, then fold two strands of orange Crystal Flash over the thread on each side as the lateral line, and cover the collar with red thread. A real parr's lateral line catches light exactly this way.
Build the head with brown Ice Dub in front of the eyes, white polar fibre below, black above, and a dyed orange and yellow rabbit throat, then cheeks of cree hackle at three quarters of the wing length.
Cover with black thread, take the fly out of the vise and mark the brown parr bars and red spots down each flank, then cement and epoxy the head once dry.