With the Black 5/32 bead already on the Tiemco 2457, wrap seven to ten turns of .015 lead wire behind it, cut the excess, and push the wire up inside the bead - that both centres the bead and adds the weight.
Start black 6/0 thread right behind the lead wire, cut the tag, and take several wraps through and over the lead so it stays seated in the bead. Keep building thread over the shank so there is no transition bump between the lead and the bare shank.
Rotate the hook in the vise and tie in two brown goose biots well down the shank for the tail, one laid on the far side and one on the near side so the curves splay away from each other; trim the butts.
Secure about three inches of Peacock Mylar along the shank, add the small copper wire along the near side, then run the thread forward all the way against the bead.
Palmer the mylar forward in touching turns with no gaps up to the bead - hackle pliers help, the mylar is slippery - then lock it with a couple of wraps and cut the excess.
Wrap the copper wire forward as ribbing, keeping the spacing as uniform as possible, lock it with a few wraps and snip.
Snip the tips off two or three strands of peacock herl, hold them against the bead and wrap them a few turns tight up against it, secure with a couple of thread wraps and cut the excess.
Tie in two white goose biots one at a time as the wings, curving in along the shank, matched to about the length of the body; fold the excess back, bind it down, and cut it off as close as you can.
Wax the thread, spin on a few strands of peacock ice dub, and lay it over the wing tie-in points to cover the untidy ends.
Whip finish, cut the thread, and trim any loose fibers out of the dubbing.