Body Material 1 @FullingMill Rabbit Zonker Strips Micro - Olive Grizzly Black Barred
Body Material 2 @upavonflyfishing3605 Straggle Hackle - Olive Mosaic 10mm
Resin Solarez Bone Dry
Eyes Lead Painted Dumbell Eyes - Smal Red
Connecting Wire Beadalon - .015in
Body Material 2 Upavon Fly Fishing Straggle Hackle - Olive Mosaic 14mm
Head Fulling Mill Sculpin-Stacker Dub - Wounded Sculpin
How to tie it
Mount the size 14 Back Hook, start the olive 140 denier thread right behind the eye and lay a thread base back to the bend.
Wet your fingers and part the fur on a micro Rabbit Zonker Strip, then bind it in at the bend with only a short tuft trailing past the hook. Keeping the trailer short is the point of the rear hook: too much material hanging off the back is what draws short strikes.
Tie in the 10mm Straggle Hackle and wrap it forward as the body. It carries a flat, natural-looking yarn and flash in one material, so where a complex twist needs two materials tied in and wrapped, this needs one.
Fold the rabbit strip forward over the top, split the hair, and take two or three wraps over the hide. Tie in a scrap of straggle in front of it, snip the excess, whip finish and seat the knot. Coat the tie-off with Solarez Bone Dry and cure it, then brush the straggle out to free any trapped fibres. The back section is finished.
Swap in the size 10 front hook, start the thread behind the eye and lay a base for the eyes to grab so they cannot spin. Set the lead painted dumbbell eyes one eye-length back from the hook eye with three cross wraps in each direction, then spin them under so the fly rides hook point down. Hit the wraps with medium Zap-A-Gap, then add many more cross wraps and lash around the base of the eyes, the way you would bind two sticks together, to draw everything tight.
Run the thread back to the bend over a full thread base. The Beadalon connecting wire holds far better on thread than on bare steel. Pass the wire through the eye of the rear hook, slide on the 3D bead, set your length and bind the wire down on the near side where you can see it.
Add more super glue, then fold the wire tag back on itself and bind it down. Doubling the wire back, or running it through the hook eye, is what stops it pulling out under load. Clean up the wraps and blot any glue that has crept out.
Split the hair on a second Rabbit Zonker Strip and tie it in so it bridges the gap between the back of the front hook and the rear strip, aiming for a seamless transition. A couple of wraps over the hide, a few in front, then fold it back out of the way.
Tie in the 14mm Straggle Hackle, bring the thread all the way forward, and wrap the straggle up the shank, brushing the fibres back as you go so you trap as few as possible. Figure-8 it top and bottom around the dumbbell eyes so no gaps are left, then tie it off in front of the eyes.
Brush the rabbit strip out, fold it forward over the top, split the hair and take a couple of wraps over the hide, then snip and pull the fibres back clear of the hook eye. Clean the head up.
Stack a clump of Sculpin-Stacker Dub, tie it on top with two or three wraps and take a wrap in front so it cannot slide. Repeat with a second clump underneath, then bring the thread in front of both clumps and push them back with your spare fingers.
Whip finish three or four turns, seat the knot and snip. Coat the head with Solarez Bone Dry top and bottom, pushing the fibres forward as you go for a rounded profile and to keep material out of the hook eye.