Slide the Gold bead (2.4 mm tungsten on a size 14 nymph hook) to the eye. No extra weight. Start Rusty Brown thread behind the bead, lay a base back to the bend, then bring the thread back to the front.
Catch the Yellow Antron in just behind the bead and bind it rearward with a few loose wraps as far back as you want the body to reach; this doubles as the underbody. Return the thread to the front.
Catch in the Copper wire (small) at the front and bind it back the same way. Its only job is to hold the biots down later.
Take the thread back to the front and wrap the Antron body. Treat it like thread: spin it clockwise to cord it up, or let it spin back and flatten. Take one layer up the shank, a thin layer back, and up again so the body is neither skinny nor fat. Tie the Antron off up front and snip the excess.
With the thread still at the front, take two of the longer Brown goose biots. Catch the first in with a couple of loose wraps so it lies mostly on top with a slight natural flare to the near side, checking the tail length beyond the bend. Set the second on top toward the far side, so both lie on the top half of the body and flare a little to the sides.
Pinch the biots down along the top of the body and spiral the copper wire forward over them, binding them down as a shellback. Before the wire gets too far, part the two tail tips with a bodkin so they flare slightly apart. Tie the wire off behind the bead with three fairly tight wraps and helicopter it off.
Snip the biot butts and throw a few extra wraps over them to lock everything down, then take the thread back a little.
Build a medium noodle of Tan fuzzy dubbing and wrap the thorax a touch thicker than the body and a touch thicker than the bead.
Catch in a small Brown soft hackle feather, snip off the tip, and take one to one-and-a-half turns for wispy legs. Snip the excess, sweep the fibers back so the collar goes all the way around, and fill the gap between the hackle and the bead with thread.
Whip finish with about four turns, snip any stray fiber pointing forward, and put a drop of head cement on top of the bead to wick into the first thread wraps.