Start black thread mid-shank on a size 14 dry fly hook and take it back to the start of the bend.
Stack 10 or 12 moose body hairs and tie them in as a tail at least one shank long. Moose body is stiff and not very hollow, so it will lie straight back without flaring. Bind the butts forward to keep the underbody uniform, then trim the excess.
Tie in a single yellow ostrich herl and bind it back to the bend. Set the thread at the point where the back third of the body ends.
Wrap the herl forward in three or four touching turns to build the rear third of the body. Remember the count. You will back those wraps off in a moment. Secure with two wraps and leave the herl attached, taking a couple of loose wraps forward with the thread.
Tie in a single strand of red floss and wrap a narrow but thick band (at least two layers, since red darkens a lot when wet) then secure it with two or three wraps and trim.
Lift the ostrich herl back into play and wrap another three or four turns forward to build the front section of the body. Tie off and snip the excess.
Select a grizzly dry fly hackle with barbs about one and a half times the hook gap. Tie it in immediately in front of the yellow, keeping the stem perpendicular, and add a wrap behind the tie-in to prop it upright.
Wrap as many close turns of hackle forward as you comfortably can to make this a buoyant floater. Tie off and snip the stem.
Pull all the fibers back, take a few wraps rearward to make room, whip finish, and add head cement.