Dry fly hackle Brown hackle (One feather, palmered alongside the grizzly)
Superfine synthetic dubbing Black dubbing (Enough for the whole body)
Black permanent marker Black ostrich herl (To hide any white thread at the head)
Head cement or UV resin Clear uv resin (One drop)
How to tie it
Lay a black thread base almost, but not quite, to the start of the bend, leaving the thread hanging just in front of the bend.
Bring a piece of white rubber tubing up under the thread and take one or two wraps, then pull the two ends down and out to the sides and lock them there with tight wraps behind the tie-in point, so the tail sits low on either side of the shank rather than standing up.
Pull the tail lightly taut and trim it to about one shank length.
Tie in a grizzly and a brown dry fly hackle together, sized to the hook gap, a short way up from the tail so you can get a few dubbing wraps in behind them, and bury the stems.
Wax the thread and dub black superfine: two or three wraps behind the hackle tie-in first, then dub the rest of the body forward to just behind the eye. Keep it moderate. This fly is meant to float, so avoid water-holding materials.
Palmer both hackles forward over the body with fairly close turns, the way the spikes sit on a real woolly worm caterpillar, and tie off at the front. Pull them back, add securing wraps, and trim the feather tips and any barbs pointing forward.
Tie in the second piece of white rubber at the front exactly the way you did the tail: a couple of wraps, then pull the ends down to either side and lock them with tight wraps.
Build the head behind the front legs. If a spot of white thread shows through, touch it with a black marker rather than piling on more thread.
Whip finish, then trim the front legs a bit shorter than a body length. Shorter than the tail.
Add a drop of head cement or UV resin, spin the fly to spread it, and cure.