Place a 3.0mm faceted gold tungsten bead onto the Hanak H400BL size 14 jig hook small hole first, slide it up behind the hook eye, and secure the assembly in the vise.
Make about 15 wraps of .01 lead wire around the shank to stabilise the bead and add weight, break the front end off close, slide the wraps firmly up into the slot of the bead, then brace the wraps and break off the excess at the back.
Start the olive UTC 70 immediately behind the wire wraps, bind the wire further to the shank, and continue rearward to just before the start of the bend; snip the tag off close.
Prep four or five Coq-de-Leon fibers — stiff, straight, without much web at the base. Preen them perpendicular to the stem, strip them free with the tips aligned, measure a tail about a hook shank long, bind them down and snip the butt ends off close.
Strip a single peacock herl from the stem, break or snip off its brittle tip, tie the tip in right at the back edge of the lead wraps and secure it rearward to the bend.
Lay a 6-inch length of small gold Ultra wire along the near side with one end running forward to the lead wraps and bind it in. Butting both the wire and the peacock right against the back edge of the lead smooths the transition. Build a gently tapered thread underbody, ending at the back edge of the bead.
Wrap the peacock herl forward in touching turns to build a fuzzy body, secure it behind the bead with a few thread wraps and break or snip the excess. Counter-wrap the gold wire over the herl to segment and reinforce it, secure it at the back of the bead and helicopter it to break it off close.
Prep a dark brown hen hackle: strip the lower fuzzy fibers away, then keep stripping from the tip end until about an eighth of an inch of fiber remains either side of the stem. Pinch the very tip, preen the fibers down the stem, and trim the exposed tip into a small triangular tying anchor. Bind that anchor along the near side of the hook behind the bead.
Hold the stem vertical, gently preen the fibers rearward, and take one and a half turns of stem around the shank — enough to space fibers evenly all round. Bind the stem to the shank and snip the excess close.
Preen the fibers rearward and take a wrap or two behind the bead to make a small landing pad. Lay two white goose biots on top with the tips aligned, extending almost to the back end of the body, splayed slightly outward in typical Prince fashion. Bind them down, take a couple of wraps around the bare shank behind the bead, snip the butts close, and add another wrap or two so they cannot pull free.
Dub a collar of natural grey squirrel — spiky, covering the thread wraps well without overdoing it — then do a four or five turn whip finish, seat the knot firmly and snip the thread close. Brush or pick the squirrel out as needed.