Body Ultra Wire, black (brassy) and hot yellow (small) (1 strand each)
Thorax Peacock herl from close to the eye of the feather (2 herls)
Legs Hen hackle (Clearwater Hackle) (1 feather)
Wings White goose biots (2, crossed)
How to tie it
Slide a 2.4mm gold tungsten bead onto an Allen W501BL and add about eight wraps of 0.015 lead wire, leaving a gap between the lead and the bead. There are materials to tie off near the eye.
Catch the thread tag behind the lead wire so the lead is trapped between thread, then run the thread to the rear.
Tie in two brown goose biots for the tail, one at a time, a little shorter than the body and splayed away from the hook. Check from above: the tips should be pointing away from each other.
Tie in both Ultra Wires, black in brassy and hot yellow in small, directly behind the end of the lead wire, so the body picks up the diameter of the lead and carries it forward without a step. Bind them back into the tail then wrap forward again.
Build a small thread ramp off the front of the lead as well. Two contrasting colours is the point of the fly, and Tim keeps the lighter, thinner wire so it reads as a rib against the darker one.
Wind both wires forward together, keeping the black on the far left as you go, and stop at the lead wire. Helicopter the wires off rather than cutting them.
Take two peacock herls from close to the eye of the feather, line up the tips and trim them level. Tie them in by their tips and wrap a full thorax. Do not be shy, the thorax is meant to be prominent on this fly. Tie off, then wind back through the herl to lock it in.
Prepare a hen hackle by holding it by the tip and stroking the fibres down. Tie the tip in, trim it away, push the fibres back and take two turns, stroking the fibres rearwards after each turn.
Take one wrap in front, trim the stem as close as possible, then push the fibres down with your fingers and take a couple of wraps back over them so the hackle sits closer to the thorax and the herl pushes the fibres out from the body.
Tie in two white goose biots over the top as wings, one at a time, crossing them so each butt comes out on the opposite side of the eye. Pick thicker biots for this.
Lock the biots down, trim the butts, and take about a dozen thread wraps to build the head and tuck the remaining white stubs under the bead.
Half hitch, inspect, pluck out any surplus hen fibres with your fingers, then whip finish.
Apply head cement to the thread collar only, keeping it away from the hook eye.