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Hi-Vis Damsel

Dry Fly · Trout · Panfish · Advanced · 1 version

Tyer Recipe

  • Hook Short shank, 3X wide gape scud/emerger hook (Tiemco 2488), #12-14
  • Thread Tan or olive to match the body 70 denier

Materials

  • Braided leader butt (body), sold as Adult Damsel Body Dyed and barred blue or olive material (About 1 in)
  • Organza / floro fibre (wings) Clear pearl organza floro fibre (Two small bunches)
  • ParaPost yarn (sighter post) Any highly visible colour (One short length)
  • Closed-cell foam (back and legs) Tan or olive closed cell foam (2 mm strip, about 1 in, cut roughly 2 mm square)
  • Super Fine dubbing (thorax) To match the body (Small pinch)
  • Thin superglue (Zap-A-Gap) Clear head cement (Drop on the rear of the braid)

How to tie it

  1. Lay a thread base and bring the thread back to about above the hook point, then rotate the fly so the underside of the shank faces you. The wings go on the bottom.
  2. Figure-eight a small bunch of organza fibre onto the underside as spinner-style wings sticking out either side, leaving them long for now; add a couple more figure-eights to secure them, then post each wing lightly with a few wraps so you can push them out of the way while you work.
  3. Turn the fly upright, lay the ParaPost yarn along the top of the shank parallel to it and take a couple of loose figure-eights, then lift the yarn and work it back and forth so the wraps seat at its centre. Repeat for four figure-eights total, then hold both ends up under heavy tension and wrap the base down onto the shank; post the yarn upright. Keeping the wings underneath and the post on top stops the two materials tangling.
  4. Cut about an inch of braided damsel body and tie it in at the base of the post, binding it down tightly to the rear with a support wrap underneath and forward again. Touch the rear tip with a drop of thin superglue so it cannot fray in use.
  5. Cut about an inch of 2 mm foam roughly square in cross-section, split most of its length up the middle into two legs, and taper a point on the unsplit end. Tie the point in on top just behind the post and bind it back to the body tie-in so the two foam legs point out the back.
  6. Straighten the wings out to the sides and stand the post up. Dub a small amount of Super Fine on the thread and build a little body in front of the wings first, that helps hold them out to the sides, then take the thread back, cover the foam tie-down, and figure-eight more dubbing between the wings and the post, keeping an even taper front to back.
  7. Pull the foam forward with one leg on either side of the post, combing the wings back out of the way, stretch it lightly so it does not break, pinch it in the middle and lock it down with several thread wraps.
  8. Pull each foam leg slightly as you trim it so the butt snaps back short, cover the butts with thread and whip finish.
  9. Trim the post to whatever height you need to see it, then turn the fly upside down, pinch both wings together at the hook point, double that distance and trim both wings at once so they finish about twice the hook gape; spread them to the sides.

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