Hemoglobin window tint strip Blood red (One strip)
Buzzer Wrap Smoke (non-fluorescent) (One strand)
Permanent marker Black or red permanent marker (Head)
Superglue Clear head cement (Thin coat)
How to tie it
Start white thread on a Daiichi 1760. White is deliberate. The window tint is translucent, and a white underbody lets the red in the tint do its own work instead of being deadened by red thread underneath.
Tie in extra small red wire and run it down the shank to the barb, then set it aside. Keep the underbody the same width the whole way. Bloodworms have no taper, so any swelling makes the fly read wrong.
Peel the backing off a strip of hemoglobin window tint by squishing an end between your fingers until the two layers separate, then tear it off. Tie the strip in at the bend and build the thread back up the shank in even wraps.
Wrap the window tint forward side by side, barely overlapping the edges, and tie it off by nicking the edge and pulling. That trick leaves nothing to trim in a tight spot. Tied on its own with no overwrap this would already be a bloodworm; the tint colour is bang on a deep blood larva.
Wrap smoke Buzzer Wrap over the tint without overlapping. Pick a blotchy strand that goes dark and light. That variation is what gives the naturals their sheen and slightly dulls the red the way a real larva looks.
Rib the red wire forward in even turns to the eye, tie it off with a couple of wraps, and pinch out the tag while holding tension on the bobbin. Darken the head with a black or red Sharpie. Naturals have a dark end.
Whip finish and coat the whole fly with superglue. Even with three body materials it stays slim, and the glue makes it durable enough for a season.