Bodkin / Patterns

Hare's Ear Wet Fly

Wet Fly · Trout · Advanced · 2 versions

tightlinevideo dressing

  • Hook Black, 3X-strong nymph hook (here, a Fulling Mill FM51 05, 14
  • Thread Black, or 70-denier 8/0

Materials

  • Rib Gold Oval French Tinsel, small
  • Tail Brown Indian neck hackle fibers
  • Body Light hare’s-mask dubbing
  • Hackle Indian neck hackle
  • Wings Mallard primary-feather slips

How to tie it

  1. Start the black 70 denier thread a little behind the eye of the Fulling Mill FM51 05, take a few wraps rearward and snip the tag.
  2. Anchor a length of the Gold Oval French Tinsel to the underside of the shank and bind it there back to the start of the bend. Advance the thread to about an eye-length and a half behind the eye.
  3. From a larger Brown Indian neck hackle, pull a dozen or so fibers perpendicular to the stem and strip them off with the tips aligned. Measure a tail one shank length long, transfer that measurement to the start of the bend, and bind the fibers on top of the shank back to the bend. Leave the thread just in front of the hook point.
  4. Pull a small pinch of Light hare's-mask dubbing and roll a thin noodle on the thread. Start the dubbing right at the base of the tail and take touching wraps forward, ending about an eye-length and a half behind the eye.
  5. Rib with the tinsel in open spiral turns over the dubbed body, five or six turns. Anchor it with thread and snip the excess close.
  6. For the hackle take a single smaller feather from the same Indian neck, fibers just under a shank length. Strip the lower fuzzy fibers, pull a bunch down perpendicular to the stem to expose the tip, and snip the tip to leave a small triangular anchor. Shiny side facing you, lay the anchor against the near side of the shank and bind it; the anchor keeps the slippery stem from pulling free.
  7. Grip the stem with hackle pliers, fold the fibers back, and take two or three turns as a sparse collar. Anchor the stem, snip it, preen the fibers down and back and take thread wraps rearward to hold them there, leaving a small open landing pad on top of the shank for the wings.
  8. Pull one primary feather from each side's Mallard wing so they are mirror images, snip away any messed-up portions low on the feathers, and align the tips. Cut a slip a hook gap wide from each: butt a spare hook's shank against the lowest fiber and insert the point to separate the slip, then snip it from the stem.
  9. Orient the slips concave sides in, fibers curving down toward the back. Lay the first slip against the near side with its tip reaching about halfway down the tail and take a single loose temporary wrap. Place the mirror slip against the far side in line with the first, unwind that one wrap, get the butts oriented, then take two loose collecting wraps followed by a couple of very tight pinch wraps to accordion the fibers down.
  10. Take a few more wraps forward, lift the butts and snip them close using the angled hook eye as a guide. Wrap front to back over the butts to build a neat head, make a four or five turn whip finish and snip the thread. The wings should sit fairly even and tent-like on top. Add a small drop of head cement or UV resin to the head wraps.

Other versions

1 more in the app: Lucian Vasies.

Tying videos

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