Partridge fibres (throat) Brown or grey partridge fibres (8-10 fibres)
Mottled turkey quill (wing) Natural mottled turkey quill (Matched slips from a left and a right feather)
UV resin or head cement Clear uv resin (One drop)
How to tie it
Lay a black thread base from the eye all the way back to the bend.
Choose a golden pheasant tippet feather small enough that only two bars show at the length you want; tie the bunch in at the bend so the tail is a little longer than the hook gape but shorter than the body, then bury the butts with touching turns forward.
Take the thread up to the front and tie in a single peacock herl by its thick end there, then bind it down along the near side of the shank all the way to the tail. Tying it in from the front avoids a lump at the rear.
Bring the thread back up front and tie in the red or burgundy floss; wind it flat down to the tail and back up again, giving it a slight clockwise twist if it starts spreading too wide, and watch the hook point so you do not nick it. Tie off and bury the tag.
Wind the peacock herl forward in evenly spaced open turns as the rib, tie it off on top and snip.
Turn the hook over and tie in 8-10 partridge fibres as a throat, checking with a medium wrap or two that they come off the bottom of the hook and reach roughly to the hook point, then lock them in and reach in to snip the butts while the fly is still inverted.
Cut matched slips from a left and a right mottled turkey feather, poke the hook through the feather to gauge the slip width, align the tips and measure them to about the bend, or halfway down the tail.
Set the wing on top with a loose pinch wrap, pull tight while holding it with your material hand, check that it has not rolled, then take a couple more progressively tighter wraps going forward. Trim the butts close and push them up with a fingernail.
Take the thread behind the eye, build a tapered head, whip finish with four or five turns and coat with UV resin or head cement.