Start the red 70 denier thread about mid-shank on the size 16 barbless dry fly hook and wrap back to where the rear segment should begin.
Build the rear segment by wrapping the thread back and forth over the rear of the shank into a football shape, then whip finish right there so the segment can be varnished before the hackle goes on.
Put a drop of head cement or UV resin on the bodkin and touch it onto the rear segment, spin the hook to even the coat, and cure it 10 to 15 seconds under the UV light. Left uncoated the segment looks ribbed and still works; the resin makes a true hard body that lasts longer.
Restart the same thread just ahead of the rear segment. Take a grizzly dry fly hackle sized to the hook, strip the fibers from the base of the stem, and bind it in.
Take about three turns of hackle with the hackle pliers (up to five for fuller legs), keeping them off the rear segment so they do not crowd it. Bind the stem with two wraps and snip it. Pull back any fibers pointing forward rather than trapping them.
Advance the thread, leaving an eye-length bare behind the eye for the wings. Build the front segment the same way, a little smaller than the rear one, keeping a very narrow waist at the hackle between the two segments: that waist is what gives the ant its look. Whip finish, coat the front segment with a drop of resin, spin to cover it and cure.
Restart the thread just in front of the front segment. Select two small dry fly hackle tips of matching size and bind them in one at a time on top, trimming each stem to length before securing. Set them flaring up at about 45 degrees; a bigger thread head would lay them flatter. Check from above that both come off at similar angles.
Finish the head with thread, evening it out against the front segment and keeping the eye clear. Whip finish three or four turns and snip the thread.
Add a smaller drop of resin to the head, spin it around without getting resin in the eye, and cure 10 to 15 seconds.