Hook Ahrex HR410 (or any heavy streamer/salmon hook), 1
Thread White 8/0
Materials
Tag & rib Flat gold/silver tinsel (one strand)
Second rib Oval gold tinsel, medium (one strand)
Body Real Seal dubbing (Feathercraft), natural (sparse)
Throat dubbing Pink seal-substitute dubbing (a pinch)
Underwing Craft fur, white (5/8 inch bunch)
Overwing Craft fur, golden olive (5/8 inch bunch)
Topping Peacock herl (5-7 strands)
Throat Grizzly saddle hackle, webby (1 feather)
Cheeks Jungle cock eyes (1 pair)
Head UV resin, thin (Solarez Bone Dry) (3 coats)
How to tie it
Start the thread behind the return wire and lay touching wraps back to the bend. Hold the tag end at a slight angle as you wrap, each turn then slides against the last and the base comes out smooth without fighting it. Trim the tag at the bend.
Tie in the flat gold/silver tinsel at the bend, gold side showing, and take two touching wraps to form a short gold tag.
Tie in the ribbing at the same point, oval gold tinsel first and the flat tinsel over it, both running the full length of the shank. The oval goes on first because it will be wound second, over the flat.
Dub a semi-tight noodle of Real Seal onto the thread and wrap forward. Start sparse at the rear and roughly double the amount by the front, building a taper. Keep the noodle loose enough to brush out later, a tight noodle will not.
Add a pinch of pink dubbing at the throat, just short of the eye, and stroke the fibres back so they sweep toward the bend.
Wind the flat tinsel forward in open, evenly spaced turns and tie off. Pull firmly but stop short of breaking it, a rib that loosens takes the body with it.
Follow with the oval tinsel, tracking just ahead of the flat rib so it crowds the dubbing back against it. Two wraps to tie off, one in front and one behind, then trim.
Brush the body out hard with a dubbing brush. Trapped fibres from the ribbing are expected, this is the step that turns a tidy body into a buggy one.
Cut a 5/8 inch bunch of white craft fur, pinch it by the tips and pull out the short underfur and straggle. Measure it past the bend and tie it in as the underwing, then trim the butts at an angle.
Repeat with golden olive craft fur, slightly thicker and extending a little beyond the white. The two lengths together give the tapered minnow profile.
Tie in 5-7 strands of peacock herl as a topping, running to about the length of the olive craft fur. Let the tips sit at slightly different lengths; a perfectly stacked topping looks stiffer than it should.
Strip the fluff from a webby grizzly saddle hackle and tie it in where the fibres change from short to long. Take about five wraps for a dense collar, stroking the fibres back each turn so none are trapped.
Fold the collar back and take a few wraps over the base, dividing the fibres down each side so they sweep under as a throat.
Tie in a jungle cock eye on each side, set slightly further back than usual and angled a touch upward. Three wraps a side, checking the second against the first before trimming.
Colour the white head black with a marker, then colour the remaining thread and wrap to cover the join against the natural materials. Three-turn whip finish and cut the thread.
Coat the head with thin UV resin, three coats, curing between each. Keep it off the jungle cock and the peacock.