Lay a base of Black Danville 210 thread from the eye back to about the hook point. Plan to use super glue, UV resin and plenty of thread throughout to make the fly bombproof.
Cut a long hank of Purple SF Flash Blend, pull the ends apart from either side to give it a natural taper, and roll it in your fingers to even it out. Tie it in folded in half on top of the shank, the bottom half slightly shorter, holding it up so it stays on top. Fold the second half back, measure it, and if it is too long bind it further down the shank to shorten it.
Comb a hank of Black Craft Fur, thinning it if needed, and reverse-tie it facing forward with the clump slightly on your side. Advance the thread a wrap, fold it back over the top only (dark on top, lighter below), lock it down, and glue the whole base with Zap-a-Gap so it becomes one piece.
Take Three Strands Small Pearl Lateral Scale, wrap them around the thread to measure them equal, lock them down under tension, and split them a little high along each side down the length of the fly.
Match Two Purple Saddle Hackles for size, and tie them in on top slightly longer than the wing, leaving the fluff at the base for support and body.
Comb the underfur out of a clump of Purple Arctic Fox and tie it in around the shank with a couple of loose wraps before tightening, more on top than on the bottom, long enough that the brush will not cover it. Leave the butts as foundation and trim them at the end.
Cut One Strand Lateral Scale long, double it over the thread with the tips even, slide it down into place, separate one strand to each side and pull them flat down the body as a lateral line. Add more Zap-a-Gap and thread wraps over the top.
Tie in the tip of the Craft Fur Brush and palmer it forward in spaced wraps rather than edge to edge, picking out any trapped fibers as you go. Finish with two or three edge-to-edge turns at the head for bulk, about five wraps total. Lock it down with five or six thread wraps and cut the wire with wire cutters, not your scissors.
Build a good thread head, whip finish, and singe any fuzzy ends with a lighter. Coat the head with Solarez Bone Dry UV resin and cure it.
Set the 10mm Living Eyes with E6000, stabbing the adhesive in where each eye will sit and placing the eyes slightly high so they do not block the hook gap. Check both sides match, and back-fill any gaps with UV resin.