Wrap one layer of .015 lead-free Weight wire along most of the shank, then wrap a second layer back over it about halfway down. Stacking a thin wire this way adds weight and builds a taper without switching to a fatter diameter that would change the profile.
Start the olive thread behind the weight, take a few wraps over it, and smooth the transition at the back and front of the wire as best you can. Run the thread to the rear.
Catch in a length of 4X Monofilament for the Rib at the rear (6X is too thin). Keep it from spinning round the shank as you bind it down.
Tilt the hook in the vise so the shank slants, wax the thread, and dub the Caddis green synthetic dubbing loosely. Do not pack it tight: the rib will compress it and form the profile.
Once the dubbing has started around the bend, reset the hook level and continue the dubbed body forward to the front of the weight, building a gentle taper.
Wind the Rib forward in the same direction as the thread (not counter-wrapped) and tie it off.
Pull a small pinch of Hare's mask from under the ear, just above the eye, and dub a short, thin noodle. Wrap it as a sparse dark head; it is only a hint of a head, not a bulky collar.
Put a drop of super glue on the first short length of thread, wrap it so the glue lands on the head wraps, and whip finish quickly on top of it so the whip settles into the glue for a durable head.
Substitutions
Body instead of Bright green dubbing or latex: Chartreuse Superfine — Easy to dub bright body; Green latex strip (wrapped) — Translucent and segmented; Chartreuse vernille — Quick body, bright color
Thorax instead of Black dubbing: Peacock herl — Buggy, iridescent head; Black Ice Dub — Dark with flash