Flat embossed tinsel, small Silver oval tinsel (Rib)
Silk floss Black floss (Body)
Heron hackle (or substitute) Natural hackle (2)
Gadwall hackle Natural hackle (1 (collar))
Goose shoulder White goose shoulder (Matched pair (wing))
Jungle cock Natural jungle cock (2 large)
Five-minute epoxy Clear uv resin (Head coat)
How to tie it
Start white Uni-Nylon at the return eye of a size 3 Daiichi 2051. Strip fine silver oval to its core, tie it in by the core from underneath level with the barb, and wrap five edge-to-edge turns for the tag. Stripping to the core is what keeps the tinsel from stepping up off the shank.
Wrap fluorescent green silk floss over a smooth base in front of the tag and burnish it flat. That green butt is the signature of the pattern and it needs to be a clean block of colour, not a lumpy one.
Set a Lady Amherst crest slightly longer than the bend for the tail, then wind five turns of peacock herl for the butt and fold the herl back before securing so the fibres flare rearward.
Tie in small flat embossed silver and silver oval side by side under the hook, both level with the butt, then wrap black silk floss for the body. Mark where the second rib turn falls. That is where the heron hackle gets tied in by its tip.
Switch to Nano Silk 24/0 and rib with the flat tinsel first, then the oval tight against it, then palmer the folded heron hackle along the edge of the oval. The long heron fibres sweeping over the black body are what make a Spey fly breathe on the swing.
Add a second folded heron hackle as a collar, then a folded gadwall hackle in front of it, pulling the fibres back with your fingers as you wrap so nothing stands proud.
Set a matched pair of white goose shoulder wings tent-style in front of the collar with the tips level with or just past the bend, add large jungle cock cheeks below each wing, razor the butts to a taper, finish with black thread, cement and epoxy.