Hook Standard-length dry fly, barbless, #10-18 (size 12 tied in the video)
Thread Yellow (match whatever body color you want) 140 denier
Materials
Moose mane Dark brown/black moose mane (About 12 stacked fibers for the tail)
Deer hair, natural Natural brown deer hair (One medium tuft for the hump)
Tying thread (or floss) Yellow floss (Two layers for the body)
Calf tail White calf body hair (One medium tuft for the trude wing)
Hackle Grizzly hackle (One feather, barbs about 1.5x the hook gap)
How to tie it
Start yellow 140 denier thread mid-shank and lay a base back to just short of the bend.
Stack about a dozen moose mane fibers and tie them in as a tail one full shank-length long. Cord the thread clockwise so the first wrap bites without flaring the hair, and use two medium wraps working back.
Leave the moose butts in place and wrap forward over them with loose wraps to thicken the underbody, then tighten the wraps, pull the butts up and snip them close. Bury the stubs and return the thread to just in front of the tail.
Stack a medium tuft of natural deer hair and pull out the underfur. Tie it in with the TIPS POINTING FORWARD over the eye, catching it in at roughly the 65% point and taking loose-to-medium wraps back to the tail. Where you catch it in sets the body length. Trim any tips that crowd the eye.
Build the body with two layers of yellow thread (or tie in floss and wrap two layers) forward to about the 75% point, leaving room at the eye.
Gather all the deer hair butts, taking care not to grab the moose tail, and fold them forward over the top to form the hump. Pull tight for a flat hump or looser for a rounder one, cord the thread and lock it with two tight wraps, then add several more, working a wrap or two down into the hair.
Snip the excess deer hair off close at the front and bury the stubs, leaving the thread hanging just behind that point.
Tie in a medium tuft of white calf tail trude style, lying flat over the back and reaching to the rear bend of the hook. Do not bother stacking it. Use a pinch wrap plus about five securing wraps, then trim the butts at an angle and build a small thread ramp to smooth the underbody.
Tie in the grizzly hackle at the back of that head area and take four tight touching wraps forward, tilting the fly nose-up so the wraps do not slide down. Tie off and snip the excess feather.
Sweep any forward-pointing barbs back, take a few wraps to make a flat landing area, whip finish and add the smallest drop of head cement. Keep the eye clear enough to pass 5x tippet.