Slide the 2.5 mm slotted tungsten bead onto the jig hook, start the thread and put down a quick thread base, then a few wraps hard behind the bead.
Tie in a small bunch of Coq de Leon for the tail, one body length long. Take your time with careful wraps and keep the fibres sitting on top of the shank.
Tie in extra small silver wire, catching the very tip and binding it down the side of the hook so it does not disturb the body profile.
Build a slight thread taper along the shank, not much at all on a hook this small.
Hang the bobbin in the cradle and rib the wire forward in open turns for segmentation, then a wrap or two in front, capture it and break it off by working it back and forth.
Dab a little Loon UV resin over the body. If it goes on thick, touch it with a finger to thin it, the resin must not be so heavy that it buries the ribbing. Cure it with the UV light.
Spin two or three strands of grey Angel Hair into a tiny dubbing noodle and take a couple of wraps behind the bead and one in front.
Whip finish the dark thread and cut it away, the fly is not finished yet.
Start red thread from a second bobbin immediately behind the bead and take a couple of wraps to create the hot spot. Do not tie it off too heavily; this is the step the tyer rates as the most important on the fly.
Whip finish the red thread and add a tiny drop of water-based head cement, which soaks in rather than sitting on the surface.