Tail Barred olive/black wings and fins (blood quill marabou)
Body feather Dyed wood duck (mallard flank)
Dubbing Golden olive dubbing (Fulling Mill Tactical Microflash Dub)
Wings and fins Barred olive/black wings and fins (blood quill marabou)
Head dubbing Wounded sculpin (Fulling Mill Sculpin Stacker Dub)
Head feathers Dyed wood duck and dyed olive (mallard flank)
Head Olive ostrich herl (Flymen Sculpin Helmet, small)
Resin Clear uv resin (Solarez Bone Dry UV resin)
How to tie it
Slide the small olive sculpin helmet onto the size 2 hook and park it at the eye, then start the light olive 140D behind it and wrap back to the bend. Fitting the helmet first saves finding out at the end that the head wraps are too bulky for it.
Tie in a full barred olive and black marabou tail about a shank length long, keeping the tie-in point short so the fibers flare rather than lying flat.
Wrap a mallard flank feather dyed wood duck as a body collar just ahead of the tail, then dub a band of golden olive microflash in front of it. Alternating feather and dubbing is what builds the mottled, banded look this fly is named for.
Repeat that feather-then-dubbing sequence forward to about the 60% mark, adding a short marabou clump on each side at the second band to act as pectoral fins. Sculpins have oversized side fins and they are the most visible feature when the fly is sitting on the bottom.
Tie in a marabou wing over the top at the 70% mark, keeping it sparse so it can pulse, then wrap the mallard flank feathers in wood duck and olive as a full front collar that will splay out behind the helmet.
Dub the wounded sculpin stacker dub over the last section of shank and brush it down and out flat, then slide the helmet back over it and lock it in place with thread wraps in front.
Whip finish behind the eye and seal the front wraps with Bone Dry so the helmet cannot creep forward off the head.