Take about eight wraps of 0.015" lead wire around the middle of the shank. Start the black thread leaving a long tag end free, since the tag is the rib. Build a small dam behind the weight, cross over it, build another in front, then ramp the thread over it.
Take the thread well back around the bend and park the thread tag under a magnet to keep it out of the way.
Take about four of the green and blue metallic ringneck pheasant body feather fibres, not a big tail but a long one, and catch them in at about a hook gap long. A slight upward cock looks fine. Bind the butts forward to help fill the gap behind the weight, snip, and add a few wraps to smooth the taper.
Wax the thread and dub the olive wool on thin, taking the body forward to about two-thirds of the shank. If the wool will not stay on the thread, hold it against the thread with your fingers close to the hook as you wrap.
Counter-wrap the thread tag forward as the rib, four or five turns, and catch it off. This locks the wool in and adds a little segmentation. Snip the tag.
Bring the thread back to the front of the body and catch in a small sliver of red duck slip on top as the wingcase. Bind it in, and spend a few extra wraps smoothing any step down from the weight to the front of the hook.
Wax the thread again and dub a thorax of the same olive wool, a little thicker than the body.
For the legs, take another ringneck pheasant body feather, cut a small slip, and snip a V notch out of the middle. With the thread hanging a little back on the thorax, lay the slip over the top tent-style with a couple of loose wraps, then pull the legs shorter to length before taking a tight wrap or two.
Fold the red duck wingcase forward over the thorax, push the legs down to the sides, and catch it off loosely. Check the legs and wingcase, then add a tight wrap or two and snip the excess red duck.
Push the stub up with your thumb, take the thread to just behind the eye, and wrap back to build a big nymph head. Whip finish, snip the thread, and pull out or trim any stray wool fibres.