Lay a base of light yellow thread from behind the eye to the start of the bend. Use the same colour you want the body to be, because the thread is the body.
Stack 10 or 12 light elk body hairs and tie them in at the bend as a tail. A chunky, significant tail is the signature of this fly. It will flare, so keep the bunch on top with a couple of tight wraps and add a couple of medium wraps going rearward to settle the back down.
Pull plenty of thread from the bobbin and bind the elk butts forward with loose wraps so they do not flare or spin, then switch to tight wraps at the 75% point and trim them off. Bury the ends.
Move the thread a couple of eye-lengths behind the eye and tie in a medium tuft of barred lemon wood duck for the wing. Lick your fingers and roll the tips even first. Set the height a shade taller than the hackle will be, then take several wraps in front to stand the bunch upright.
Split the wing evenly with your bodkin or fingers and set the two halves with about four figure-eight wraps between them, around 35 to 40 degrees of separation, not fully spent.
Take the thread to the middle of the body and tie in the heavier yellow thread for the rib.
Wrap the light yellow tying thread back and forth over the rear two-thirds of the shank until you have a smooth, creamy body of decent thickness, then wind the yellow rib forward over it in open turns and tie it off with a couple of extra securing wraps.
Tie in a light ginger dry fly hackle behind the wing, backing your thread up far enough that you can fit three or four turns behind the wing and one or two in front. Stripping a few extra barbs off the underside of the stem makes that first wrap sit cleaner.
Wrap four turns behind the wing and two in front, tie off, then lick your fingers and pull everything back to open up room for the head.
Whip finish quickly before the hackle springs forward, trim the stem, tidy any fibres crowding the eye, and add a drop of head cement. Check the wings are still split.