Finish Loon UV Clear Fly Finish (a drop on the thread)
How to tie it
Slide the 3.3mm black nickel tungsten bead onto the size 14 jig hook, mount it, and lay a base of hot orange power thread. 140D is heavier than ideal at this size, something like 70D would suit better, so keep the wraps economical.
Tie in the small copper wire for the rib on the near side of the hook, limiting the thread wraps so the body does not bulk up.
Snip off four to six pheasant tail fibres and measure them against the shank so the tail is one shank length. Trap them with a pinch wrap.
Take one, two, three further wraps behind the tail to leave a band of bare orange thread showing. That is the hot spot tag.
Bring the thread forward, then wind the pheasant tail forward over the shank, either by hand winding away from you or using the rotary function of the vice, and catch it with the thread. Snip the excess.
Counter-wind the copper wire forward against the direction of the pheasant tail, three or four turns, so the rib locks the fibres rather than sinking between them. Wrap the thread around the wire, catch it, repeat, then brace with the bobbin and helicopter the wire off.
Put Loon Low Tech Swax on the thread and dub the spiky squirrel fur on loosely, a dubbing loop or split thread is not needed at this size.
Wind the thorax starting where the pheasant tail ended, pulling the fibres back as you wind, and work forward to the bead.
Brush the thorax back with a toothbrush to pick it out and remove the loose bits. Keep it spiky but sparse so the orange hot spot thread shines through.
Take a few thread wraps behind the bead to create a second orange hot spot.
Run a little Loon UV Clear Fly Finish onto the thread instead of superglue, whip finish over it, hit it with the torch and snip the thread off.