Mount a long-shank streamer hook (Matt uses a size 8, 7XL) and lay a base of hot orange thread from behind the eye back to the start of the bend.
Take a fat clump of yellow bucktail, pull out the shorter underfur, and leave the tips natural rather than stacked. Measure it long, well past the bend, and bind it in at the bend with a couple of wraps, then take one wrap directly under the clump so it cannot spin around the shank.
Leave the bucktail butts in place to fatten the underbody. Bind them forward with loose wraps to about the 85% point, lock with a couple of tight wraps, and snip the excess.
Wrap orange thread back and forth over the whole shank to build a solid, bright underbody. It is meant to show through the body, so do not skimp.
Bind a length of gold cactus chenille in at the rear, advance the thread forward, and wrap the chenille forward in slightly open turns so the orange shows between them. Tie off at the front, trim, and brush the fibres out with a toothbrush.
Tie in a grizzly hackle by its butt end so the barbs come long, take three or four turns as a collar, lock with two wraps, and trim. Sweep the fibres back with your fingers to make room for the wing.
Prepare the wing off the hook: stack two yellow feathers and sandwich them between two grizzly feathers, then glue all four together at the butts with a drop of UV resin and cure it.
Set the glued wing on top of the shank with a couple of loose wraps, nudge it until it sits upright and centred, then lock it with tight wraps working forward. Snip the resin-stiffened butt with heavy scissors.
Build a large, bright orange thread head over the stub, whip finish, and add a drop of head cement.