Tail and back Magnum rabbit strip, white (1 strip, twice the overall hook length)
Weight Tungsten beads, pink or red (2 x 5/32in)
Body E Z Body tubing (1 piece, hide to just past the eye)
Eyes Stick-on 3D eyes (1 pair)
Resin Semperfli No Tack UV (as needed)
How to tie it
Mount the Ahrex TP610 in the vice and start Nano Silk mid-shank, running open, spaced wraps down the shank rather than touching wraps, the gaps give the superglue that comes later something to grip, and the whole underbody gets covered anyway.
Tie in a length of 30lb mono, keeping it a little to the near side so that it finishes on the underside of the shank, and carry it back to the bend so it dips slightly below the hook.
Measure a Magnum rabbit strip to about twice the overall hook length with roughly a quarter inch hanging over the eye. Part the hair at the tie-in point, pinch the hide so it folds down each side of the shank, and lock it with three or four very tight wraps, then a couple of wraps hard in front to lift the hide clear of the shank.
A third to halfway down the tail, punch the hide from beneath with a bodkin and ream the hole slightly so the mono passes easily. Feed the mono up through, bring it down the far side of the shank and tie it off with five or six wraps, pulled tight enough that the strip cannot foul the bend but not so tight that it drags the hide backwards, so the tail still flows.
Advance the thread to halfway between the hide and the eye and slide on two 5/32in tungsten beads, concave faces opposed so they form a taper. Wrap in front of them and work back and forth between them, leaving about an eighth of an inch clear behind the eye so the head is not crowded later.
Trim the waste mono, it does not need doubling back, it is locked another way. Work the beads round so they sit centred on the underside of the shank, then brush liquid superglue (not gel. You want it to set fast) over the beads and thread so they cannot shift sideways and make the fly ride off true.
Cut a length of E Z Body tubing that reaches from the hide to past the eye, slide it back over the fly with the cord on top, catch it with two loose wraps to gather the material without fraying it, then crank down hard and finish with a three-turn whip finish, opening the whip tool wide to clear the tubing.
Trim the tubing just past the eye and leave it alone, handling the cut end at this stage makes it separate and fray.
Restart the thread behind the eye, take ten to twelve firm wraps and trim the tag. Take one loose wrap over the frayed tubing ends and pull the tubing back with your left hand rather than shoving it back with thread pressure, then build a neat head.
Fold the rabbit strip forward over the top, take about three wraps, then trim the hide as close as you can without losing it out of the wraps, leaving the sixteenth of an inch of thread space rather than cutting the strip short keeps the head from bulking up, and the eyes will cover the join.
Bed the hide down with figure-of-eight and criss-cross wraps and clear away any straggling fibres, since strays make the eyes awkward to seat. Whip finish.
Lift the zonker strip clear and run a line of Semperfli No Tack UV resin along the top of the tubing to stop it bowing down into the hook gap, then cure.
Seat the stick-on eyes over the thread head, coat with resin and cure hard.