Mount the size 4 Gamakatsu B10S rear hook and start waxed 8/0 white. A heavier thread would also work here since the body is a wire-cored brush.
Tie the tab of a medium Fly Skinz Thin Finz in right at the back of the shank where it enters the bend, with about five wraps then a hard crank down, taking care not to over-tighten and bend the tail. Secure again.
Brush Zap-A-Gap over the wraps, getting some onto the Thin Finz itself, and lay it on generously because the brush is going in over the top of it.
Tie the craft fur dub brush in by the end that was at the hook end of the cyclone tool, then palmer it forward with firm, pressured wraps, not touching wraps, the glue holds it, keeping it sparse at the rear so it tapers into the tail. About three eighths of the brush does the rear section.
Tie the brush off behind the eye with a wrap behind, several in front and one over the top, then flush-cut the stainless core with wire snips and bed the end down so no sharp wire can cut your thread. Whip finish.
Brush the rear section out aggressively to free every trapped fibre, then set a blob of UV resin at the head and cure for five to ten seconds.
Mount the size 2 front hook and start the thread, working a little way down the shank. Figure-of-eight the large lead dumbbell eyes onto the underside of the shank so the fly rides hook point down, adding wrap-arounds to pull them straight if they tilt, then a few wraps in front, more figure-of-eights and a few behind.
Cut eight or nine inches of 50lb Spiderwire camo braid, fold it and cut it into two equal strands. Tie both in on the near side on top of the shank, leaving half to three quarters of an inch projecting out past the lead eyes, and bind back into the bend.
Thread three spacer beads onto the braid, pass it up through the eye of the rear hook and back through the beads, then tie it down on the far side of the shank so the underbody stays even. Draw it tight if the gap is loose. Two strands is more than the 50lb braid needs, but it stiffens the joint slightly and is cheap insurance against losing the rear hook.
Wrap the projecting braid ends around the lead eyes on each side and secure them, working the thread back down the shank, this is why the eyes are not glued earlier, since super glue on the eyes makes the braid impossible to wrap without gluing your fingers.
Trim the tag ends and be generous with the Zap-A-Gap here, working back to the tie-in point, adding a couple more wraps down the bend if the joint feels loose.
Tie the craft fur brush in where it was cut off and palmer forward to just behind the lead eyes. Take the first couple of wraps deliberately, the Ripple Ice in the brush stiffens the fibres and helps hold the rear hook back so it does not foul. Keep the wraps from crossing each other and try not to trap fibres in the glue.
Tie off with securing wraps behind and in front, snip the stainless core, then dub a head of One Eyed Flies dubbin around the lead eyes and whip finish.