Legs Barred jig skirt material, knotted (2 rear, 2 front)
Segments Dubbing, black (2 small noodles)
Wing/shellback 1 mm foam (1 piece)
Head UV Ice Dub, orange (big clump)
Eyes Hopper eyes (1 pair)
How to tie it
Cut a square of 4 mm craft foam and singe the edges with a lighter. It gives the foam that hopper-booty shape and a darker shade.
Lay a burnt orange thread base on the size 12 Firehole 718.
Dub a good clump of UV orange Ice Dub as an underbody and bring it back to about the middle of the shank.
Tie the foam on so the butt sticks out just past the bend with a little over the front as well, then leave a small gap and take one wrap underneath to lock it from spinning.
Knot a strand of barred jig skirt material with an overhand knot for the rear legs, tie one in on each side and trim.
Dub a little black dubbing in front of the legs to push them back, then lift the foam, bring the thread forward to where the dubbing ends and form the next segment of the body.
Fold a strand of jig skirt over the thread and pull it in to one side for a front leg, then repeat on the other side.
Lift the front of the fly and tie in a small bump of thread underneath the head to force the head up. That is the drift boat idea, the water flows under the raised head and holds the fly on the surface.
Cut a piece of thin 1 mm foam roughly the shape of the body but a little wider than the booty, hold it on and tie it in between the legs with a couple of wraps.
Pull the legs back and cinch down so the thin foam stands up in the air, that is the silhouette the trout sees.
Dub a black dubbing noodle, separate the legs and lift, wrapping to build the contrast segment. Black is chosen so the segments read clearly.
Wad a big clump of UV orange Ice Dub on top and tie it in for the head, then trim it into a triangle.
Jump the thread underneath the head, lift the head and come under, alternating so the finished fly reads orange, black, orange, black and ends on orange.
Lift the head and put in a five turn whip finish, then add the hopper eyes.