Swiss straw (raffia) Brown or olive swiss straw (head/thorax top and abdomen overbody)
Monofilament (50 lb, compound eyes)
Monofilament (15 lb, ribbing)
Goose biots Brown or olive goose biots (anal pyramid and legs)
Thin skin Mottled thin skin (abdomen overbody)
UV2 caddis nymph dubbing Golden brown ice dub (underbody/thorax)
Weighted body cord or lead (body taper)
Super glue
UV resin
How to tie it
Lay a thread base at the eye. Cut a 4-5mm spine-side strip of unraveled Swiss straw and tie it in just behind the eye, centered on top of the shank (this becomes the top of the head and thorax).
Flatten the center of a strand of 50 lb mono with pliers and tie it across the shank with criss-cross wraps just behind the Swiss straw for compound eyes; trim to 3-4mm per side, shield the straw with your thumb, singe each end, and press flat with a wet finger (total eye stem about 4mm).
Build a narrow-wide-narrow tapered underbody over the abdomen using weighted body cord (or stacked lead/mono).
Tie in a length of 15 lb mono along the abdomen for the rib.
Form the anal pyramid: cure one goose biot on each side of the hook at the rear and one on top of the shank.
Cut a 4-5mm strip of mottled thin skin to a taper point and tie it in at the rear as the abdomen overbody.
Spin a golden-brown UV2 caddis dubbing noodle and wrap a cylindrical abdomen that goes narrow-wide-narrow; fold the thin skin over the top, secure, and trim the excess.
Spiral the 15 lb mono rib forward over the abdomen making 9-10 segments and secure; flatten the abdomen with flat-nose pliers and add a dab of super glue for durability.
Spin another dubbing noodle to the eyes; criss-cross around and figure-eight between the eyes to build a flat head, then move the thread to the abdomen/thorax junction.
Pull six barbs from a goose biot and tie the hind legs on each side at the junction; add super glue, cover the thread with a dubbing noodle advanced to mid-thorax, then repeat for the middle legs and finally the front legs (the shortest set), using short dubbing-noodle wraps behind each set to steer them forward.
Fill in any gaps with dubbing to achieve a broad, flat head, add super glue at the leg junctions, and finish with a thin coat of UV resin.