Mount the Ahrex SA220 size 4 and start the 8/0 behind the eye, laying a base over about the first third of the shank. Use the lead eyes themselves to measure: doing it that way keeps the proportions right whatever hook or eye size you switch to.
Set the medium lead dumbbell eyes just behind the hook eye with three loose wraps and let them settle onto the shank, then cross over one way, rotate and cross the other way, and finish with ten or fifteen over-unders to lock the crossing wraps down.
Run thread back to the bend and forward again over the eyes, leaving it hanging about halfway between the eyes and the hook eye.
Pull about twenty white bucktail fibres from the middle of the tail, clean them up to leave fifteen or eighteen. Less is more here: it is a slender minnow, and there is flash, hackle and a second bucktail wing still to come.
Trim the butts and pinch the bunch into an oval, hold it at 45 degrees, and take the first wrap. On the second wrap pull up rather than down, a Clouser trick that spreads the fibres across the top of the shank instead of twisting them round it.
Fold the bucktail loosely over the lead eyes with two or three wraps, hold it slightly angled up on top of the shank and zigzag the wraps back, three at the bend, then wrap forward again to leave the thread behind the eyes.
Twist a small clump of Ripple Ice Fibers into a tight bunch, fold it in half around the thread and lay it over the dumbbell eyes, zigzagging over and taking two or three wraps behind the eyes so it forms a V round the shank. Advance the thread in front of the eyes.
Lay a very generous coat of Z-ment over the dumbbell eyes and into the flash. This is where the fly is made bomb proof, before anything else goes on.
Select two olive grizzly saddle feathers, one from each side of the cape so they curve to match, and tie the first in with about three wraps so it sits on top, then pull it down so the stem curls round the lead eyes. That curl is what gives the fly its profile and keeps the feather on top, and it means less olive bucktail is needed to finish.
Match the opposing feather on the other side in the same way and trim the stems. The two feathers are divided by the shank with the lead eyes holding them in position.
Tie the olive bucktail wing on top using the same technique, 45 degrees, over on the first wrap and pull down on the second.
Build the nose over about a third of the space in front of the eyes, keeping it as slender as you can and tightening the wraps hard onto the bucktail. You can always add thread; it is harder to take bulk away.
Three-turn whip finish, straighten any feathers that have gone sideways, colour the head with a marker to taste, and coat with Solarez Bone Dry.